VIENNA, Week of February 27th

February 27:
February 28: Went to hear the Counselor for Economic and Political Affairs from the US Embassy speak on “The Chinese Economic & Political Challenge” (especially the implications for the US & Europe). Maybe 30 people were there. Nobody tossed him any tough questions. Afterwards I went up and introduced myself and inquired whether he would come speak at the International University since I am having my graduate class look at emerging China and its implications. I have a Sudanese student who told me “millions” of Chinese are in Sudan (obviously exaggerating, but he obviously felt there was a very large number). The Sudanese student seemed concerned about the heavy Chinese involvement and I was curious about how far China is moving into the underdeveloped world. The speaker minimized this issue when I asked him about it. However, he said he would be happy to speak to my students. We chatted a bit longer. Also met the Public Diplomacy Officer who said to email her about materials I could use in some of my classes. Her husband is from Texas. I should probably have contacted her earlier.

March 1: Midterm grades are due on the 8th. It is much like home—some students are doing outstanding work while others are a bit lax in meeting some deadlines! I sense that students from wealthier families or whose nations are footing the bill are the lax ones. Those who face challenges are really serious about getting ahead and excelling.

I was invited to join the President and Academic Dean at IU and some other faculty to meet a female business professor/administrator from London Metropolitan University who was visiting. IU and London Metropolitan University are exploring a relationship. Great Britain certainly has a different perspective of business majors—she kept referring to the business program as a vocational degree. Met my evening graduate class for the first time and am glad it is small. Students come from: Libya, Afghanistan, Japan, Croatia, and North Korea (refugee from some years past).

March 2-5: Prague, Czech Republic, Trip. Got up at 4:30 to catch a 6:08 AM train from Vienna to Prague. We arrived in Prague about 4 hours later, changed some money at the ATM, walked over to the public transportation information booth, and bought tickets to take the yellow line Zilicin train to the Jinonice stop. Our Pension was near this stop (actually it was a bit of distance from the stop, but the price was right!). Left our suitcase and back packs and met Pane Berankova. I discovered ATMs give big bills in Prague and it is hard to change them for small purchases, but fortunately, I had enough small coins to get tickets on the underground. At the pension the lady of the house warned us about pickpockets and recommended a 3 day ticket (unlimited rides for 3 days) for the trams/subway. The automatic ticket machine for our trip back into town from the Pension would not take bills so I had to go into a Tabak shop and buy the tickets. Took the underground back toward the city center and got off at the Mustek stop and as I came up saw Vaclavske Namesti and the Narodni Museum at the far end. This is the square where all demonstrations take place such as when the Czech ice hockey team wins a gold medal in the Olympics. In spite of some very “generalized” directions quickly found the restaurant “Cesky raj” recommended by Kathleen M. Went down the stairs and had a delightful meal of Czech onion soup, roast pork, dumplings, and sauerkraut (cibulcka polevka, veprova pecena, knedliky a zeli) at a reasonable price. Checked out ticket prices for the opera, but all we could get was 3rd row seats at a price we didn’t want to pay. So we started walking through the Old Town (Stare Mesto) toward Charles Bridge and Hradcany (castle). We stopped at a variety of shops along the way selling crystal, matryoska dolls, t-shirts, caps, etc.). I was tempted to buy a t-shirt with the phrase “The KGB is Still Watching You,” but I didn’t give in. I think that all the shops in the center of the city are run by Russians. Somehow I couldn’t get into a Czech mood with all this Russian music playing when we went in to shops—they all had a deal, but the deals all seemed to be the same price. Finally made it to Charles Bridge and discovered TOURIST HORDES from all over Europe (but Italians and Germans seemed to dominate, although I saw a number of Brits as well)—this was in winter in 30 degree weather! I think I heard more German, Russian, and English than Czech while we were in Prague. Looked at the stalls of “starving artists” as we crossed the bridge and headed into Mala Strana and up the street to Hradcany (Prague Castle). Also there were a number of beggars along the way hoping for some small change. Hradcany is on a bluff overlooking the city so we took in the awesome view. On the way down, besides stopping in shops that didn’t appear to be run by the Russian mafia, went into to a caffeeteria for something hot to drink and a Prague Ball (for me, like chocolate cake only in a round ball about 3-4 inches in diameter and a yoghurt cheesecake for Mary). Sat and tried to warm up. Walked back across the Charles Bridge enjoying the night lights in the cold weather. We bought some tickets for a concert in St. Clement’s church for the following night. Since we had been going since 4:30AM headed back to the Pension about 8 and got warmed up with showers and feather quilts.

The next morning for breakfast the pension served a typical Czech breakfast (in our room). We had rohlikhy (rolls) and rye bread. In addition to butter and jelly, we were given cheese and fowl pate for our bread. Czech breakfast rolls are delicious with butter and jelly. Headed back down to the city and took the underground to Hradcany. The Prague yellow line underground leaves a lot to be desired compared to the Vienna underground—I think the yellow line was the first line built and has a neo-Stalinist feel, even down to the cars. The cars have seating for about 30-40 people and according to the sign, standing room for over 200! The ads were interesting—I saw several for the HBO special on Rome which basically advertised the series as a sex series. I tend to get turned around when we get off these underground stations unless I see a familiar landmark so at the Hradcany stop went in the opposite direction after getting off the underground. However, we ended up walking by the residence (mansion) of the American ambassador (where in 1973 we had been invited to a Christmas party). The Czech police guard gave me directions and we headed back in the correct direction. Went past the Israeli embassy which was even more well-guarded than the American embassy. Walked into Hradcany amidst many large groups of German and Italian tourists. Got a ticket which allowed us to see St. Vitus Cathedral and a number of other sites. When we were here under communism, almost all of this was free—now capitalist Czechs are charging for almost everything, even to go into a church (however, even the Viennese are doing this at some churches so I can’t blame the Czechs for trying to get a bit of money from the tourists). After seeing Hradcany and St. Vitus (I think St. Vitus is one of the most beautiful Gothic cathedrals in Europe), took the tram to where we lived in Prague almost 35 years ago when I was in graduate school. The Stalinist housing has been “dolled” up—so much has changed. The neighborhood department store seems to be run by Asians, but the grocery store was packed (with both people and goods). Took the tram back down to the center where we had spied a fish restaurant with specialties from Iceland. It was bit pricy, but went in and I had Icelandic cod. It was good, but I am not sure it was worth the price. It also started to snow! It was beautiful walking through old city streets at night with heavy snow flakes coming down—you could almost imagine what it was like in the Middle Ages if you could ignore tourists and outdoor cafes with their gas heaters going. It was almost a blizzard. We looked in a number of shops because we had some time before our concert and were also trying to stay warm. This was the only time we met a policeman who asked what we were looking for when we went into a deserted passageway—he must have been there for some reason. Went into to St. Clement’s and heard a lovely repertoire of organ/violin music from the major composers. The church supposedly has excellent acoustics. The only thing making it somewhat unpleasant was that it was freezing inside the church—you could see your breath. The concert went 70 minutes which was enough for flavor. Headed home to warm up through the heavy snow which was falling.

Woke up to snow, snow, snow. After breakfast took the underground and tram to Vysehrad. We hiked up a snow-covered path to a lovely view and only a handful of tourists. The church and fortress area is one of the more beautiful places in Prague and doesn’t suffer from a “touristy” flavor. Vysehrad was built high on a bluff overlooking the Vltava River. Paid 50 cents to tour the church and actually saw Czechs there. Walked down to the street along the river, looking for the house of embassy friends of many years ago. Then took the tram over to Panska Street to see the Mucha museum—both of us like art noveau. It was a smaller, but delightful museum. Again, there weren’t the crowds that we faced in Hradcany. Went back to “Cesky raj” for dinner (had the same meal once again) and then walked over to the Jewish ghetto. It was closed on Saturday so looked around on the outside of the buildings. Next went into St. Nicholas Church, which was Roman Catholic until the Hussite religious reformation. The Hussite Church kept Roman Catholic ritual, but had a more Protestant theology. Walked back with the tourist hordes to Mala Strana and then up to Strahov monastery (near Hradcany) and overlooks the city from a slightly different angle. A mass was being held so didn’t walk through the church, but we walked around and again spent time looking out over Prague. In walking back we decided just to get a small meal and looked at a number of restaurant menus. Saw one outdoor restaurant where the server would drink out of the pitcher that he would use to fill the glasses of customers with some kind of cider-like drink. I watched him do this several times, although it would have been hard for the customers to see what he was doing. I guess what you don’t see is okay. Finally picked a restaurant, because it had ovocne knedliky on the menu. Went in and I ordered the Selska omleta (Farmer’s omelet), because I thought it would be lighter (I knew what was coming with the ovocne knedliky). It was a beautiful little restaurant lit with many candles and the ceiling was arched. Also with the snow and cold, it just seemed like a warm place to be. When we went in, only a group of Italians was there. It never got very busy so I don’t know how it stays in business (of course, I am sure as more tourists come with the warmer weather, it will be busier). My ovocne knedliky came (two in number about the size of a fist)—these are dumplings boiled with fruit inside. The toppings can vary, but normally there will be a generous sprinkling of cinnamon on top—these came with whipped cream and chocolate drizzled across in addition to the cinnamon. Strawberries were inside the knedliky and some raspberries were on the plate. Two was all I could handle, although in my younger days, I think 16 was my record. Walked back through the snow to the underground and off to our pension.

Got up to egg omelet covered with onion in addition to the breads. Headed off to the train depot to get back to Vienna. I had only seen one, maybe two incidents of petty theft (in Vienna, I have never seen anything resembling petty theft). However, in rushing to the train, I gave my tickets and seat reservations to a female train conductor to ask about the correct car to get on. I went on to our seats and couldn’t find our tickets and realized I had not got them back from her. When I went back she said I did not give them to her so I had to purchase return tickets quickly—I am sure she could sell the tickets for a profit. Made it back to Vienna through the very beautiful Moravian hills covered with snow. Next time I want to just rent a car and drive through the small towns of Moravia and see the castles and churches. Prague is too touristy, although I think everyone needs to see it once. It rivals some of the Italian cities in beauty and you can even speak Italian in Prague if you wish.

I did make one purchase—two watercolors sold by a starving artist on Charles Bridge. I feel bad because the pictures I liked best were done by a young Russian lady so my Czech souvenirs have a Russian origin. The mistake Brezhnev made in 1968 was to send in Soviet troops; if he had sent in Russian capitalists (or maybe the Russian mafia), they would have done a better job of turning Czechoslovakia into a Soviet satellite. I am going to talk with a Czech professor I am getting to know at the university to see what his take is on what is happening.